So it continues...

"Wifi ok, mais d'autres perturbations à venir."

So says the sign-in site. Wifi is back again, after 4 days, but "other problems to come." Thanks for the warning, but I think it is written in the culture. Oh this culture. When people would ask me why I chose Martinique (a small island in the middle of the Caribbean), I told them I wanted a different cultural experience. Be careful what you ask for, I'm learning.

BUT, like I am constantly reminding myself, there is SO MUCH to be learned here. And not all of it comes from trials and frustration. More than learning patience and how to ignore assholes on the street, I'm also learning a little creole here and there. "Ca ou fe?" is the equivalent of "ca va" or "how's it going," for example. Kristen and I are also taking a course on Traditional dance which includes African and Martiniquais dances. We had our first class Tuesday evening and absolutely loved it! Mme Mitrail is making me the skirts and "madras" for the class, too, on her ancient sewing machine. The machine is a hand crank machine! It doesn't plug in! I didn't realize people still used them! But I guess there are lots of things I don't realize. I'm really appreciative of her kindness in making me the skirts necessary- she and I are getting along relatively well. I told her the other day that I am moving and explained that "it's not you, it's just going to be close to campus and I will be living with a friend of me. It's easier, more convenient."

I am also continuing to develop my friendship with Florence downstairs. She's only been here since April and understands a lot of the culture shock.

In other news, this morning's class was, instead of Pirates, Corsaires and Flibustiers, devoted to discussing the political situation in Martinique. I'm not complaining. My professor is a political figure and we discussed in length the economic crisis, ideological changes that need to happen and, of course, her goals as a politician. The other night, while chatting with Florence en bas, I learned that for 6 weeks in February and March, a strike completely immobilized the country. The super markets were all shut, there were no gas stations, no gas, nothing was open. The schools were shut down, the buses couldn't run. What did people do for food? They could only buy from the street vendors who were selling at a very high price. Supply and demand, sure, but they also had to feed their families, I suppose. Today in class, when discussing why things are so expensive in Martinique, I learned that bananas that are sold at the grocery stores are shipped from Martinique TO FRANCE to a distributor and then BACK to martinique! What nonsense! Every material/object/product/food that is not produced in Martinique (many many things) is taxed, and not just a few percent. If I understood correctly, it was 30 percent. Yet, the government voted NO on getting rid of the tax. Why? because 40 or 50% of their budgets come from this tax. unbelievable.

But, such is life in a small island in the southern Caribbean. Rum capital of the world but no one can afford it. I get a meal stipend of 220 Euros a month. That is- with's todays exchange rate, which went UP, damnit- close to 330 dollars. This summer, eating organic, local food, I ran about 150 dollars a month. Gas? 1.15 Euros a litre. That's about 6.50 a gallon. Who knew. I didn't. Be careful what you ask for.

I went by the fruit and veggie stand up the street to grab a cucumber and maybe some fruit and the sweet guy who runs it, as before, threw a bunch of stuff in the bag. I handed him a cucumber, a pomme cannelle and a cake (for Mme, to say thanks) and walked away with and additional 1/4 watermelon, an avocado, and 5 pomme cannelles. 4 Euros, he said. I gave him 5. The cake alone was 3. He asked me what I think of Martinique and we had a long discussion about the boys and men here (it's a cultural thing, everyone tells me. Their MOTHERS encourage it!), racism and, of course, the "glory days" before everyone was doing drugs. I love older people for that reason. Things were always perfect back in their day.

Well, if Kristen and I are going to take our hike as planned, I need to find a place to rent a car from. Split between a few people and hopefully it won't cost me my life... hopefully.